Archive for September 2014
The delta’s wild coast: Mawtinsoun Pagoda
Mawtin Point sports two golden pagodas: Mawtinsoun Pagoda on a hilltop overlooking the sea, and Phaung Daw Oo about 100 meters offshore. The latter is said to mark the spot where King Alaung Sithu – who ruled Bagan from 1113 to 1160, and was renowned for his wide-ranging travels – once berthed his royal barge.
These pagodas teem with activity during the annual Mawtinsoun Pagoda Festival, held in the week leading up to the full moon of the lunar month of Tabaung (February or March). But during our visit we had the wild, beautiful coast virtually to ourselves.
We climbed the covered stairway up to the platform, which was exposed to light rain and a riotous gale howling off the sea from the southeast. We admired the view and paused to light some candles at a shrine under the curious eye of a deaf, elderly pagoda attendant who was happy and helpful in a way that is rarely seen outside of Myanmar.
We descended a steep, narrow stairway from Mawtinsoun and waded out to Phaung Daw Oo along a concrete walkway that was slippery with algae. The footing was rendered even less sure by the steady assault of waves rolling across Mawtin Point from two directions at once – the Bay of Bengal on one side and the Andaman Sea on the other.
Before we departed the coast, we stopped at the lone restaurant onsite, a modest hut with a dirt floor and one item on offer: steamed rice and fried eggs. Our bellies full but unsatisfied, we then hastened back to Pathein at all possible speed, inspired to make the return journey in less than five hours by the promise of a decent dinner and a few bottles of beer.
Along the road to Mawtinsoun Pagoda
We spent one day of our trip to Pathein visiting Mawtinsoun Pagoda on the southwestern tip of Ayeyarwady Region.
It’s possible to get there by boat along the Pathein River at a cost of only K3500 for locals and foreigners alike. Such a trip requires an overnight stay near the seaside pagoda before returning to Pathein the following day, and local authorities will call ahead to arrange basic monastic accommodation for travellers.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for an overnight trip, so we took our minivan instead. I had imagined this to involve a simple drive on a straight road through deltaic flatlands, but the outbound trip turned into a five-and-a-half-hour odyssey on a surprisingly twisty, hilly and increasingly bumpy road through farmland and the southern reaches of the Rakhine Yoma.
Along the way we saw rice farmers working in the fields, as well as local entrepreneurs transporting bamboo down tributaries to the Pathein River.
The surreal allure of Royal Lake Park
We dedicated an hour of our visit to Pathein to wandering around the delightfully surreal environs of Royal Lake Park.
Near the entrance were pavilions erected by various government ministries aimed at flaunting their good works to the public. In a strange way, the setup reminded me of the exhibits at Disney World’s EPCOT Center, but less rooted in reality than the dreams trapped inside Walt Disney’s cryogenically frozen head.
I was not disappointed to see that the mouldering government displays were completely ignored by visitors, and that the porticos in front of each pavilion had been commandeered by young couples snuggling and whispering behind strategically deployed umbrellas.
Other items of interest at the park included a sculpture of a battle tank made from discarded cans of insect spray; the Bay of Lovers, consisting of a decrepit boardwalk arcing toward a statue of a naked mermaid endowed with bountiful golden breasts; a waterlogged mini golf course; lakeside cabins from which emanated the banshee wail of daytime karaoke aficionados; and a whimsical graveyard of half-sunken, duck-shaped paddle boats long past their prime.
Milling around Pathein
Ayeyarwady Region is known as the “rice bowl” of Myanmar, and Pathein is home to a number of mills where paddy is processed and the rice is bagged for shipment overseas or to other parts of the country.
It seemed like no visit to Pathein would be complete without seeing one of these mills, so we dropped by and asked for a quick tour.
Pagodas and parasols in Pathein

A young vendor waits for pilgrims to purchase coins to toss into the wishing well at Shwemokhtaw Pagoda.
Pathein does not boast a huge number of breathtaking tourism sights, but it is home to the 40-meter-high Shwemokhtaw Pagoda, one of the most important Buddhist shrines in southern Myanmar. The city is also famous for its parasol workshops, the most famous of which is Shwe Sar, which traces its lineage back to craftspeople who made umbrellas for the last king of Burma in Mandalay in the late 19th century. Finally, St Peter’s Cathedral, established in 1872, is worth a visit for its striking forest-green stucco facade.
The laid-back buzz of Pathein
The Pathein waterfront has been described on some tourism websites as “bustling,” but according to my own observations, life along the docks operates at a pace that is substantially sub-bustle – “lethargic jig” might be a more appropriate description. Some scenes along Strand Road:
On the Pathein waterfront

Pathein’s waterfront as seen from out on the Pathein River, with Shwemokhtaw Pagoda in the background.
Pathein – the fourth biggest city in Myanmar and the capital of Ayeyarwady Region – is not considered a huge draw for tourists. On the contrary, it’s mostly known as a place travelers pass through on the way to the beaches at Chaungtha or Ngwe Saung, with perhaps a brief stop to see the workshops where the famous Pathein parasols are made by hand.
This week three Burmese friends and I decided to spend a couple of days exploring the city and the surrounding area. Monsoon was still in full swing, but we didn’t let the frequent rainfall dampen (nyuk nyuk) our efforts to take photographs.
The most interesting way to reach Pathein is by boat from Yangon, but the overnight journey takes about 20 hours and we didn’t have that much time to spare. Instead, we drove a hired car, which took about 3.5 hours each way. The frequent buses from Yangon make the trip in about four hours.
More views of the waterfront: